You’re quite right, the Malvern Hills aren’t exactly a secret — surging up out of the countryside along the Worcestershire-Herefordshire border, they’re visible from miles away, adding a dramatic backdrop to many a snoozy rural scene. But it feels as if they’re hiding in plain sight, with none of the rugged celebrity of the Black Mountains to the west, or the bucolic star power of Broadway Hill and the Cotswolds to the east.
Get up on the granite and limestone ridge and you’ll see both these sets of neighbours — and a decent chunk of the UK besides. At 425m, Worcestershire Beacon is the grandaddy of the eight-mile range, a natural spot to light a fire warning of invasion — by the Spanish, say. According to Thomas Macaulay’s poem Armada, “twelve fair counties saw the blaze on Malvern’s lonely height” and on a clear day you’ll get the full set, including three cathedrals (Worcester, Hereford and Gloucester). It’s not always clear, of course — when the cloud hangs low, you might struggle to make out the grazing Highland cattle until they’re right in front of you — but it’s worth chancing the steep walk up even so. All it can take is a strong gust — hold on to your hair, the wind gets a good run-up here — and hey presto, it’s blown you a window on to the fields and woodland stretching out below.
The whole area is crosshatched with footpaths, so escape is easy. But if you believe the 17th-century diarist John Evelyn, you want British Camp, another peak a few miles south of the Beacon, for “one of the godliest vistas in England”. The Iron Age hillfort here must have been the envy of all its neighbours. The remaining earthworks give the Camp a slightly Machu Picchu-ish, sculpted look, so enjoy the hint of exotic before trotting back down to the car park. Pre-Covid, you’d pop over the road to the Malvern Hills Hotel for a pint. Today, it’s BYO drinks — unless you find one of the 70-odd springs that percolate through these rocks (try St Anne’s Well near Great Malvern). Advice these days is to boil it before drinking, but Queen Victoria and Elizabeth I got away with it. Chin chin.
‘Hidden England: day trips without the crowds in Cumbria, Hampshire and the Malvern Hills‘ by Liz Edwards first appeared in The Times on Sunday June 14 2020.
About The Author
Robert Stewart
Rob Stewart co-founded PR and Marketing companies Mountain Press and Ski Press (sister brands to Cider Press) in 2011, helping destinations and brands get their stories published across multiple UK media channels. Rob worked as a ski instructor before turning his hand to publishing and journalism – he lives in Herefordshire and is passionate about helping to connect local hospitality and travel brands to journalists and editors across the UK and beyond.